There are no words to describe the feeling you have when your face is only a couple of feet away from a polar bear: so close that you can imagine the heat of their breath.
Of course, if this happened away from the safety of the hulking polar rover, there would be no imagining necessary. These polar bears have been living on a diet of berries for months now. They are carnivores. They are starving. I rest my case.
As difficult as it was, I occasionally lowered my camera and just enjoyed these closer encounters. I felt simultaneously privileged and humbled to be in such close proximity to these graceful, lumbering creatures.
This is something most people only experience courtesy of a David Attenborough documentary. I felt like we were the luckiest people in the world in these moments.
What does a polar bear look like that close?
Then came the waiting.
Our second day on the tundra was relatively slow: the bears were sleepy and so were we. Our Natural Habitat Adventures guide and wildlife photographer, Eric Rock, was superb at keeping morale high and ensuring we were always entertained: be it with crazy stories, environmental and photography discussions or just general banter.
But day three brought more polar bear action and this time, on the ice: a spectacular finale to our Arctic adventure.
The week that I spent in this in this magical, faraway-place was one of my most rewarding travel experiences. Travelling to Canada to spend time photographing the Western Hudson Bay population of polar bears near Churchill has been my dream for many years.
And if I had the opportunity to return, I would be there in a second!
* * * *
Although I enjoy all kinds of travel, off-the-beaten-path destinations seem to be the ones I love the most. They are the ones that have that real wow factor and I always walk away a feeling little richer for having been there. They are also usually the least accessible: financially and geographically.
I was by asked by a new friend from this tour what my next dream trip would be. My wish is for a photography trip to Antarctica or Botswana but realistically they are both a long way off.
So my answer was Kamchatka in Far-Eastern Russia. My friend was impressed that I had such an interesting place on my wish list: I was impressed that someone I know had even heard of it!
But even Russia will have to wait a little while longer…
Next year I will be traveling to the Arctic again: this time to Lapland in the far north of Sweden to walk the 450km Kungsleden Trail. And I will spend a month in Iceland before that.
For now I will be travelling to Vancouver to visit some old friends before returning home to Australia.
Ah, the North! I think I have a bit of a thing for cold places….
Oh, and just in case you missed Part 1: Arctic Dreams: The Polar Bears of Churchill. Part 1
FOR THE FULL GALLERY OF PHOTOS PLEASE VISIT:
WWW.CHERINAHADLEY.COM/ARCTIC-CANADA
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Beth Dec 9 2011 - 4:58 am
Kamchatka sounds so damn cool. The bears, well the bears, and your photos are cool. I had no idea you were going to walk on your next trip. First Spain (second time around) in winter and now Lapland? I love your spirit of adventure, but I’ll take the less active route.
If you ever get through Phoenix again …..though it’s not cold enough apparently.
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quietwanderings Dec 10 2011 - 11:49 pm
I’ve heard Arizona is amazing in the winter time…maybe I could just make sure I visit then
The friend I am travelling with next year has just said to me “maybe we could talk about including Kamchatka in this trip”. Um, hell yes!!
Darlene Foster Dec 9 2011 - 5:12 pm
Amazing pictures and what a wonderful opportunity. So glad you enjoyed a part of my country. It is a dream of mine to visit Churchill and see the polar bears one day. For now I will experience it through your lens. Thanks!
Darlene from Canada
quietwanderings Dec 10 2011 - 11:53 pm
Pleasure, Darlene. It’s so nice to share photos of a place like Churchill with others. There are so many parts of Canada I would love to visit, particularly in the north. Your country is amazing!
Natasha @ Wandering Kiwi Dec 10 2011 - 11:36 pm
What magnificent creatures! Absolutely love the photos. Kamchatka and Antarctica are on my (dream) list as well, ah for snow and mountains. But next year I’ll just have to settle for skiing in Wanaka, NZ. Have a great Christmas and happy anticipating next years travels

Natasha @ Wandering Kiwi recently posted..Spain snapshot: Madrid’s best flamenco tablao
quietwanderings Dec 10 2011 - 11:56 pm
It’s all about the snow and the mountains, right? Wanaka will be fantastic! I haven’t been to New Zealand yet but would love to. I hear there is really great ice climbing opportunities there – I’m sure I read something about ice climbing up a frozen waterfall? Merry Christmas to you too!
Stephanie - The Travel Chica Dec 12 2011 - 1:23 pm
I don’t think you can post too many polar bear pictures

Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Am I A Digital Nomad Now?
quietwanderings Dec 14 2011 - 9:17 pm
Haha, maybe not. That’s it for now though!
Mike & Anne's - HoneyTrek.com via Facebook Dec 12 2011 - 10:30 pm
Looking forward to following you guys on Facebook and your blog!
Dean Dec 13 2011 - 5:17 am
Wow more incredible photos. They are such beautiful animals…it must have been such a great experience.
Dean recently posted..Canoeing and Hiking in Chitwan National Park, Nepal
quietwanderings Dec 14 2011 - 9:16 pm
Thanks, Dean. It was one of the best things I’ve ever done.
Cam Dec 14 2011 - 5:40 am
Wow – what a fantastic experience!

*slight envy going on over here*
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quietwanderings Dec 14 2011 - 9:26 pm
I’m envious of all your adventures too, Cam!
Gerard ~ GQ trippin Dec 14 2011 - 7:24 am
Cool! I want Coca-Cola all of a sudden. =P
Gerard ~ GQ trippin recently posted..Why I Hate Running & Still Ran a Half-Marathon
quietwanderings Dec 14 2011 - 10:03 pm
Ah, the marketing of Coca-Cola. It works every time!
Nomadic Samuel Dec 14 2011 - 5:26 pm
What an experience! I’ve only had close encounters with black bears before.
Nomadic Samuel recently posted..Thanks A Million!
quietwanderings Dec 14 2011 - 10:04 pm
I think bears in general are pretty amazing. And if you have to opportunity to see in them in their natural environment, all the better.
cheryl Dec 14 2011 - 11:53 pm
Damn, I love my country. We’re so lucky to have such beautiful things! Your photos are truly beautiful and polar bears are just so darn cute!

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quietwanderings Dec 17 2011 - 1:41 am
I love your country too, Cheryl! Can’t wait to get back there.
Linda ~ Journey Jottings Dec 15 2011 - 8:28 am
What a brilliant experience -
Your photographs are truly amazing, but I’m sure aren’t a whisker on how you felt in such close proximity –
Arm chair travelling envy LOL
Linda ~ Journey Jottings recently posted..Another Side of Uluru
quietwanderings Dec 17 2011 - 1:45 am
Thanks so much, Linda
Jade Johnston - OurOyster.com Dec 17 2011 - 12:10 am
Those are some FANTASTIC photos! I am a Manitoban, but have never been to Churchill. I will have to fix that next time Im home
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quietwanderings Dec 17 2011 - 1:46 am
I can’t recommend it enough, Jade. Lucky you, being so close.
Rhonda Reid via Facebook Dec 30 2011 - 5:37 am
Read your write up on Churchill and loved it, and we still haven’t had that long talked about whiteout. and yes you seem to have gotten the wildlife photography thing worked out.
Quiet Wanderings via Facebook Dec 30 2011 - 9:58 am
Hey Rhonda! Thanks a lot. So glad you came across the article and enjoyed it. We had such a great time up there with Eric and NatHab. Was really sorry to hear about the Northern Lights Hotel. Hope life in Churchill is treating you well and you are staying warm up there
Rhonda Reid via Facebook Dec 30 2011 - 6:13 pm
It’s warmer than it should be the ice has been here and gone all winter. We finally have some shore fast ice, Christmas day the bay was wide open. We haven’t seen bears so I guess and hope they found what they needed. I’m going to post some pics of the NNL site but I want to wait until the loader is gone. The only thing left is the sign. Glad you had a great time here and don’t forget we have other seasons and many more things to see.
Tiffany Jan 5 2012 - 3:33 am
Your photos are fantastic! I hadn’t realized how very white the bears can be since usually you just see a photo of a dirty polar bear on clean, white snow… That closeup you have of that one bear’s face us just amazing.
I must say though, that I am not a fan of the cold. I love the heat, and very much enjoy warm activities like scuba diving, snorkeling and sailing. Give me the tropics any day!
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quietwanderings Jan 6 2012 - 1:26 am
Thanks for stopping by, Tiffany! I admit, I was surprised by how white they were too. They are still kind of yellowy I guess and this would definitely be more noticeable on the white snow as you say. Hope you are doing what you love somewhere with warm weather right now!