Arctic Dreams: The Polar Bears of Churchill. PART I

Posted on Dec 1, 2011 in Adventure Travel, Arctic, Canada by Quiet Wanderings 30 Comments

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“When you are driving your bus across the tundra through a snow storm and you can’t see the windscreen wipers…you know it’s going to be an interesting day”

Rhonda: bus driver in Churchill, Manitoba

Things can get pretty wild this far north. And I’m not talking about the nightlife. But for today at least the weather is behaving itself. It’s minus 13 degrees Celsius with wind-chill out on the sub-Arctic tundra near Churchill, Manitoba but the skies are clear and the barely-there dawn light is perfect.

And with such magical light, any photographer venturing out into this remote wilderness has only one thing on their mind: polar bears.

(Actually, the fact that it is absolutely freezing is kind of on my mind too.)

But below-freezing temperatures and polar bears live side by side in this world and I figure that before too long the distraction of photographing the bears will help me forget all about the cold.

A brief geography lesson for those who have no idea where or what I am talking about…

The small grain-port town of Churchill is in the remote north of Canada just south of the Arctic Circle. It lies on the edge of Hudson Bay and is home to one of the world’s largest concentrations of polar bears.

Each fall, polar bears congregate here and play a kind of waiting game with the seasons. Hungry from their summer fasting they wait for the Hudson Bay to freeze to become their winter hunting ground. Climate change and global warming is taking its toll though and each year the bears wait a little longer for the ice to form.

A decade ago the bears would be out hunting on the ice by the first week of November. These days, it is more likely to be the end of November or even the beginning of December. (In 2011, the polar bears of Churchill began heading out onto the frozen Hudson Bay by 22^th November.)

And each fall people travel to Canada to see these majestic creatures in their natural environment. This is no easy feat. There are no roads into Churchill: you can only arrive by plane or train. This is no cheap family holiday or your typical romantic getaway (although what a great idea for something a little off-kilter), but if a fascinating nature fix in a remote place is what you are looking for, Churchill certainly delivers: and then some!

Being here feels as though you are on the very edge of civilisation, experiencing the bare bones of the earth…in the best way imaginable. And I guess, in a way, you are.

I was told by a friend who has taken this trip that there would be a great deal of waiting involved. I am the first to admit that I am not so good at waiting, for anything. One of my pitfalls as a photographer I suppose. And polar bears like to sleep. A lot.

But this morning my less-than-patient nature is not put to the test: I only have to wait fifteen minutes. The bears are far from sleepy and my camera gear gets the workout it is designed for. The excitement inside the polar rover as we head out onto the icy tundra is palpable. We are all here to see polar bears.

And see them we do: two bears partially concealed behind some rocks are soon basking in the dawn light right beside the polar rover. And later, we watch in wonder as another two bears spar playfully right before us. The day is over before we know it.

If today was all we had, I think we would have all walked away blissfully happy.

I am typically a fine art photographer: black and white street photography and colour travel photography is what I know. I have never tried wildlife photography. This three-month trip driving through America and travelling through Canada has been all about pulling myself out of my comfort zone as a photographer, pushing my abilities and trying something new.

I think I’m starting to getting the hang of it.

FOR THE FULL GALLERY OF PHOTOS PLEASE VISIT:

WWW.CHERINAHADLEY.COM/ARCTIC-CANADA

ARCTIC DREAMS: THE POLAR BEARS OF CHURCHILL, Part II

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Tags: adventure, arctic, canada, Churchill, cold places, photography, Polar Bears, wildlife, winter

About the Author

Quiet Wanderings Cherina Hadley is the founder of the travel blog Quiet Wanderings and has been travelling the world off and on since 1998. She is a freelance travel writer and professional photographer who loves exploring new places and hopes to inspire others to travel through her writing and photography. Photography portfolio can be seen at: www.cherinahadley.com

Comments (30)

Dana Springer via Facebook Dec 2 2011 - 1:58 am Reply

Brilliant photography!
Lily Dec 2 2011 - 4:31 am Reply

These polar bears look beautiful! As a Canadian city girl, I have to admit I haven’t explored the natural areas of the country as much as I should have, but these types of photos make me want to. Seeing a polar bear (or actually any bear) in person must be such a treat. Thanks for sharing this article.

- Lily
Lily recently posted..Top 8 Highlights from 8 Days in Jordan
- quietwanderings Dec 3 2011 - 11:18 pm Reply
  
  It really is such a treat! We saw so many bears by default on this trip – grizzlies and black bears – it seems extra fitting that I had included this adventure to Churchill as well. The polar bears definitely stole my heart though.
Beth Dec 2 2011 - 4:52 am Reply

Beautiful Cherina. I’m looking forward to part 2. Yes, you have the hang of it.
Beth recently posted..What’s It All About Alfie?
- quietwanderings Dec 3 2011 - 11:07 pm Reply
  
  Thanks, I think I could use way more practice…Africa beckons…
Dean Dec 2 2011 - 7:38 am Reply

Wow what an amazing experience that must have been. Polar bears are such amazing animals. Great photos.
Dean recently posted..Temples of Laos: Wat Inpeng, Vientiane
Stephanie - The Travel Chica Dec 2 2011 - 11:44 pm Reply

Wow! What an incredible experience. I like the photo of the polar bear sleeping on its back… sort of looks drunk and passed out
Stephanie – The Travel Chica recently posted..Foto of the Week from … Buenos Aires
- quietwanderings Dec 3 2011 - 11:23 pm Reply
  
  haha, yeah he does.
Karl Searl Dec 3 2011 - 12:15 pm Reply

Those polar bears are beautiful! Love the picture of one of them laying on its back. It looks like they interact like two puppies. Wonderful pictures and report. Thanks for sharing!

Karl
Karl Searl recently posted..Cutting Down Trees!
- quietwanderings Dec 3 2011 - 11:05 pm Reply
  
  I never got tired of watching them interact with each other. They are surprisingly playful.
Sherry Dec 3 2011 - 5:48 pm Reply

You are very lucky indeed that you didn’t have to wait long for the shots. Taking photos of wildlife can be a daunting experience. You have now secured my desire to want to go here, too. I love the second photo – he looks kind of sad, yet powerful. Its awful to learn of their struggle. Thought I can’t wait to see more photos in part 2!
Sherry recently posted..“Record Breaking Zombies in Mexico City”
- quietwanderings Dec 3 2011 - 11:02 pm Reply
  
  We were incredibly lucky to see the bears so early on. I would highly recommend this trip, Sherry. Feel free to contact me if you would like more details.
Carolyn Dec 3 2011 - 7:04 pm Reply

Amazing photos! What an unforgettable experience. Most Canadians, myself included, have never been lucky enough to see these iconic Canadian creatures in the wild. I’m living in the Northwest Territories (but not north enough to see polar bears!) and nearly every time I go for a hike there is not another soul around. Canada’s north is beautiful, but it’s so remote and expensive (not to mention, freezing in the winter) that very few people will ever get to see it.
Carolyn recently posted..Living on a Natural Wonder of the World: the Great Barrier Reef
- quietwanderings Dec 3 2011 - 10:57 pm Reply
  
  The north is just stunning and you are so lucky to be living there. It is incredibly remote – I think that’s one of the things that make it so beautiful.
cheryl Dec 3 2011 - 10:33 pm Reply

Amazing photos! I want to do this trip someday myself. I haven’t seen enough of my home country.

Hope you’ve been enjoying your time in Canada!
cheryl recently posted..Christmas Markets: Schloss Charlottenburg in Berlin.
- quietwanderings Dec 3 2011 - 11:04 pm Reply
  
  I haven’t seen much of Australia either! The grass is always greener, right?
Jarmo @ Arctic Nomad Dec 4 2011 - 4:31 am Reply

Great photos! I’ve never seen a polar bear in nature, or any bear for that matter. That place sounds amazing. Must have been a wondeful experience photographing those bears!
Jarmo @ Arctic Nomad recently posted..Friendly Encounters in Manila
- quietwanderings Dec 9 2011 - 6:23 am Reply
  
  All the bears encounters we had on this trip were really special, but the polar bears definitely stole the show.
Pete Dec 6 2011 - 4:58 pm Reply

Beautiful. Looks like the wait was worth it.
Pete recently posted..Postcards from Croatia
- quietwanderings Dec 9 2011 - 6:22 am Reply
  
  Absolutely, totally
Caz Makepeace Dec 8 2011 - 11:56 am Reply

Oh My goodness!! You think you are getting the hang of it?? These are amazing. What a beautiful experience. I am loving seeing this part of the world through your eyes
- quietwanderings Dec 9 2011 - 6:25 am Reply
  
  Thanks Caz…still need lots of practice though. It was an amazing experience! Can’t wait to do something like this again.
Raymond @ Man On The Lam Dec 9 2011 - 7:07 am Reply

Stellar photos!! I am very jealous of you right now…very jealous…
Raymond @ Man On The Lam recently posted..Out of the Closet and Into the Peat
Suzie Dec 14 2011 - 8:33 pm Reply

I only get to see this amazing animal on tv and photos. How lucky you are to see them for real. They already look magnificent in the photos, much more if I see them in actual. I won’t be lured by their friendly faces though; I learned they are really vicious.
Suzie recently posted..Brainwave Entrainment Using Binaural Beats
- quietwanderings Dec 14 2011 - 10:05 pm Reply
  
  Thanks Suzie. The photos don’t even begin to do them justice, believe me.
Vernon Dec 22 2011 - 2:05 pm Reply

I really love watching polar bears and the way they nurture there knut. I remember that it was covered by Nat Geo about Polar Bears and they are very dangerous. The male polar bear during the season will hunt food and if they encounter the female polar bears w/ there knut. The male PB will eat those poor knut. Can’t imagine that. I Love the photos and the post much.
Vernon recently posted..Brainwave Entrainment Using Binaural Beats
Ayngelina Mar 4 2012 - 5:59 pm Reply

I went to Churchill in July and I was so lucky to see three polar bears from afar. I’d love to go in the winter.
Ayngelina recently posted..Maui on my mind
- quietwanderings Mar 7 2012 - 11:05 pm Reply
  
  I would love to go back and see the beluga whales in summer like you did!
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